Panama City, Panama

In late March we returned to Panama City (from our one-month stay in the U.S.) where we spent a few days with our good friends, Sahika and Jamila, at the condo and then provisioned for our expected 2+ months in the San Blas Islands. Panama City has most everything one could want in provisioning. At the large Super Kosher Market, we purchased kosher salami and pita bread. At the Mini Max Fruteria, we loaded up with short grain rice, wasabi, sushi seaweed, fresh vegetables and herbs, and other necessary Asian items. At PriceSmart, the Costco of Central America, we bought large quantity items such as toilet paper, paper towels, tuna, almonds, walnuts, and cheese.

From Panama City, we hitched a ride with our generator mechanic (who was scheduled to come to our boat) for the 2.5 hour car ride to Shelter Bay Marina in Colon. We then sailed Dream Caper east, arriving in the San Blas Islands on March 27. It was wonderful seeing our friends on Nautibear, Bruja, KimTah and Sipapu. We immediately spent a week visiting the populated islands of La Maquina, Rat Island, Soledad Miria and Rio Sidro where we purchased molas and fresh Kuna bread. Kuna bread is large cigar shaped breads with pointed ends and are delicious when hot from the oven. Day old Kuna bread is also yummy when fried or toasted and used like crackers. Cost: 3 to 5 cents each.

On these populated islands, the dirt on the pathways and in the huts are so tramped down from use that it forms a very hard surface. Because we were a group of 6 cruisers visiting these islands, the Kuna Indian women readily displayed their molas on fences or in their hands as we walked past. Kuna children greeted us with “Hola! Hola!” and the older children loved to have their photos taken so they could look at themselves in the viewfinders. When going onto these islands the Sahila, chief, usually greeted us and welcomed us to the island. The Kuna Indians were all friendly and tolerant of foreigners taking pictures and walking through on their small pathways. We were invited into the homes of two master mola makers, Vinasio on La Maquina Island, and Bellasario on Rat Island. The huts are thatched with reed walls. The only furniture are hammocks in which they sleep and which are put away during the day. There were a few plastic lawn chairs for visitors and the kitchen is usually just a fire pit. The molas we have purchased all have a smokey smell to them, the smell of the inside of their huts. Plumbing is non-existent. Toilets are all located on the outer edges of the islands over the water. Waste goes directly into the sea.

After our visit to the populated islands, we anchored at the smaller islands of Gunboat Island (one hut/one Kuna family on the island), Salardup (uninhabited), and Los Crullos Island (small hotel/restaurant, 7 rooms with sand floors) before returning to the main anchorage at the “Swimming Pool” in E. Holandes. We snorkeled on the reefs that surround or border one side of the islands. We practiced yoga on Salardup until the no-seeums scared us away.

While anchored in the “Hot Tub” anchorage in E. Holandes, Steve was working on our dinghy outboard because it would not run. The outboard had not recovered from when the dinghy flipped over in January during Steve’s attempt to rescue a sailboat on the reef. A powered grocery ulu (canoe) came by and Geraldo, the outboard operator on the grocery boat, asked what was the problem and after he finished his run to all of the boats in the anchorage, he returned to carefully open up our motor, totally clean out the carburetor and put it back together. The engine immediately ran smoothly and during our 2 months in the San Blas it worked like it was new. What did Geraldo charge? A few gallons of gas for his own outboard motor.

We did not have the services of our watermaker the past 2 months because our main generator is beyond repair and it powers our watermaker. So, luckily we received lots of wonderful rain, at times collecting 50 gallons at once. With our new (used) sewing machine and sunbrella fabric, Portia made a gutter style raincatcher which fits under the edge of our salon roof. This replaced the one we made last year out of blue tarp material which has since sprung a leak. Speaking of sewing, after making very careful measurements, we made a sunbrella sun cover for our Hobie (foot pedaled) tandem kayak (purchased in Panama City last December) which we keep on deck. It was quite a chore since Portia has never sewn something so large. The kayak is 14.5’ by 3’ in the middle. Happily the cover fits like a glove. It is zippered (13’ zipper) and has drainage vents on the bottom. The sewing machine has been very useful this season. Portia refurbished the salon curtains, made a vegetable hammock out of netting and repaired the mainsail coverlet. Next season’s sewing project will be a big one, a cover for the dinghy.

Steve spent many hours spearfishing. He regularly provided us with plenty of fish for our meals and for the Monday evening potluck dinners at Potluck Island in the “Swimming Pool” anchorage. We met lots of cruisers at these potlucks and tasted some delicious food. We spent many fun evenings playing a game called Baja Rummy with Alan and Dee from Sunflower (Australia). Alan helped us on a number of projects, including new radio antenna, diagnosis of our portable generator problem, and getting the frozen padlock off of our outboard motor lock. Portia was able to do yoga on several occasions on Potluck Island while anchored in the “Swimming Pool”.

In late May, the lightening and accompanying thunder began. Many boats have been hit by lightening in the San Blas during the previous rainy seasons, from June to November, but the winds are less and the water calmer during this time. One night we were anchored next to a small island on which 7 of the 10 palm trees had no tops, presumably blown off by lightening. When the lightening came that night, we were very nervous! All and all it was time for us to leave the islands. We could feel the thunder vibrate in the boat and the lightening crack and thunder were getting closer together. It is time to take Dream Caper out of the water and store her on land. We returned to Shelter Bay Marina in Colon, Panama on June 2 and after 3 days of getting the boat cleaned and ready for 6 months of storage, she was hauled out on June 5 by the marina’s new 100-ton travel lift. It was done very professionally and without any problems.

We spent one week in Panama City from June 6 to 13, visiting with friends, taking care of legal matters, using the internet, playing tennis, taking long showers, letting water run out of the tap to wash our hands, and just hanging out in air conditioned places. While on the boat, Steve and I use a total of 5 gallons of water per day for drinking, washing dishes and showering. Therefore, unlimited water from the tap is purely luxurious for us. We enjoy Panama City very much and can see possibly living here full time down the line. It has modern stores and restaurants. We both just obtained out Tourista Pensionada status which is residency status in Panama. We have 2 year visas whereas visiting tourists must renew their visas after 30 days. With this status we receive the following discounts: 25% on airline tickets, 25% at restaurants, $2 movie tickets (full price is $4).

We have really enjoyed cruising the Caribbean coast of Panama this year. We are finding it difficult to make the decision to leave this wonderful country. Maybe next year? We plan to re-transit the Panama Canal in March 2008, and head to the Galapagos Islands and then the South Pacific. But, then again, we have been planning to head to the South Pacific for the past 3 years. We shall see where we end up as our cruising plans are set in jello and we like it that way! But, for now, we are looking forward to heading back to the U.S. to see family and friends, to play tennis, to enjoy the extraordinary conveniences the US has to offer and to travel to Hawaii and Mexico. We leave the U.S. for Puerto Vallarta and Lake Chapala (Guadalajara) in Mexico on September 29 after which we will return to Dream Caper on November 15.

If you would like to learn more about molas, go to
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mola_%28art_form%29