October 8, 2005 - We Return to El Salvador

Upon our return to El Salvador on September 15, we found Dream Caper to be in great shape. Collette and Murray, Canadians, who now live in Costa Del Sol, where our boat is moored, watched over her during the 4 months we were gone and even had new bottom paint put on Dream Caper. Apparently, it was quite an operation which entailed beaching Dream Caper at high tide, blocking her up and then painting the bottom during the low tide which came at night, two nights in a row. We were very grateful that the boat was carefully watched as she was afloat the entire 4 months.

We spent the first week back on the boat, cleaning her up and getting systems running again. There were nightly heavy rain showers accompanied by spine tingling lightening and immediate close thunder. A boat was hit by lightening in May before we returned home and another was hit during the summer months. It seems to just be the luck of the draw. Damages to these boats were limited to blowing out all electrical systems which were very expensive to replace, but luckily there were no injuries to the occupants.

We purchased a new refrigeration system from a company in Trinidad while we were home. Amazingly, it arrived in San Salvador by DHL and we were able to pick it up without having to pay duty or a bribe. Steve spent the first week installing the system almost totally himself. It was frustratingly slow as new wiring had to be pulled and the new cold plate carefully installed inside the refrigerator itself. As is usual, things do not always go smoothly. Steve had meticulously measured the inside of the freezer compartment for the freezer plate, but did not take into account that the opening to get the unit inside the refrigerator was smaller than the freezer plate itself!!! So, not to be defeated, Steve tediously removed an interior wall of the refrigerator which ultimately allowed the unit to fit. And it worked!

It was very difficult not having refrigeration for almost 2 weeks. Luckily, some cruiser friends kept our cheeses and salami which we had brought from home in their refrigerator. We bought lots of cabbage and other vegetables which do not require refrigeration and ate many of our canned goods. There are a few good, reasonably priced, restaurants and bars along the estuary that also keep us fed. Many things that we usually keep refrigerated at home do not really need refrigeration, like mayonnaise or jam; just so long as they are not contaminated by a non-sterile knife or spoon. We bought fresh rolls from bike venders who ride up and down the main road near the anchorage. All-in-all we managed to keep ourselves well fed and, unfortunately, our figures amply endowed!

Along with the lightening and thunder, we had torrential rains for some 5 days straight during the second week of our return. We made a gutter system around the roof of our salon to catch rain water for our fresh water tanks. In one night alone, we collected 80 gallons! We were very proud of our rain gutter invention! Unfortunately, this heavy rain has caused flooding and mudslides throughout El Salvador and Guatemala, closing many of the roads and causing thousands to be homeless. In Guatemala, a village of 250+ was buried by mud. The government decided to not excavate this village but proclaim it a cemetery. Very sad.

The cruisers in the estuary collectively built a small school and provided uniforms for the students this summer. And, after the local village was flooded last week, over $2000 was contributed along with clothing and food from the cruisers. Many of the villagers who did not have much to begin with, lost everything. We all felt a desire to help these villagers who have been so kind to us.

During these torrential rains, a volcano close to San Salvador, the capital of El Salvador, erupted for the first time in 100 years, killing 2 people. A few days later, there was a 5.8 earthquake 30 miles off shore from us. We have been holding our breath in anticipation of what might come next!! Luckily, we have found that during flooding the best place to be is on a boat.

There are about 40 boats still at anchor or on moorings in the estuary at Bahia Del Sol, Costa Del Sol, El Salvador, along with Dream Caper. They are starting to leave a few at a time, heading south to Costa Rica. Many of the cruisers spent the past 5 months on their boats here, and are very anxious to get cruising again. It was good to reconnect with many of our cruising friends and meet new ones. We were already well acquainted with at least 5 of the boats at anchor in the estuary. Some we had not seen for several months. The only hotel on the estuary caters to cruisers, and for $10 per boat per week, we use its dinghy dock, pools, restaurant, bar, and beach access. At happy hour, when the weather is good, most cruisers sit in, or around, the pool and socialize. It is a fun atmosphere filled with people who have a lot in common.

After two weeks on the boat, we shared a long taxi ride (5 ½ hours) to Antigua, Guatemala with 2 other cruisers who had to leave the country to renew their visas. Although very wet, the drive was uneventful. We saw numerous huge trees which had fallen along the roadways, and many mudslides. We had to take the coastal route since the mountain roads were still closed by the storms. We are looking forward to relaxing in beautiful Antigua, touring Guatemala and taking an intensive Spanish immersion course.